Perhaps Sarnath is a reflective place, but this only becomes apparent when you leave.

Dead bodies floating on the Ganges. I made friends with a cow in Sarnath. It has a splinted leg, and I really wonder who splinted the leg, a Jain perhaps? It just wanders, finds places to sit, sometimes convenient places where its nicely out of the way, sometimes places absolutely in the middle of everything, and people just seem to find their way around him. When I met the cow I pet its head and it seemed to like it. It seemed to approach me in a way these cows seem to have no interest in doing. People are merely moving, constantly changing scenery to them. Anicca. This cow seems to be more observant, maybe even more interactive. I saw it in the road once, in the way, being honked at by cars and hurrying to get out of the way, picking up its injured leg to hobble out of the way.

 

Hmm... I didn't realize I was going to write a paragraph about a cow. But the least I can say is that the cows certainly have a presence in India. In the short time I've ben sitting here, I've heard moos, carhorns, dogs, cats, marching bands, voices, motorcycles and autorickshaws... and who knows what else. I try to capture a little piece, a picture, a voice recording, a video (hey, did I tell you my video camera started working again in Thailand?), a piece of writing, and just as I do India seems to slip away from me, melting into what could be any other country, any other place on earth. The organic, organized chaotic weaving of bikes, autorickshaws, bicycle rickshahws, carefree yet determined pedestrians, motorbikes, cars, delivery carts and cows seems to melt away into any normal street when I pull out my camera. India cannot be captured, it cannot be seperated, extracted and implanted into a meme that can travel anywhere, perhaps it is a phenomena that can only be here, and must only be here, happening right now in this place. It is somewhat of a trip to think about the fact that all the while I've been living my life, going about my business in the states, India has always been here doing its thing. Jessica didn't seem to get what I meant when I tried to explain that one to her, and maybe the feeling defies logic.

 

So we have finally busted out of Mother Theresa's sick American ward in Sarnath and returned tgo Varanasi for the weekend, where we're staying at Assi ghat this time, further down the ghats. Its a different area with a different vibe, and I haven't really gotten out to fel the pulse yet. We just got here this afternoon. My first order of business was eat, since I didn't do that all morning due to what could have happenbed on the ride over here if I had... :/ Then I showered in what miiiight have been Ganges water piped in... ehhh... probably wasn't, but it seemed to have a funk.

 

Did the homestay again last night, didn't sleep much but had a lot of fun! Jessica, Tiphany and I tried on our Saris. Yes, thats right, I got a Sari. I looked like an Indian Goddess in it. People have been telling me that I look indian lately. "You are looking Indian."  The guy at the sari shop told me I looked like Indira Ghandi in it, and took modelesque pictures of me. I shall now proceed to look up a picture of her, as I know who she is but not of her appearance.... AND THE VERDICT IS: hmm, not too offended but it really depends on if he was referring to the young Indira or the old Indira.

 

Well, over the next few days I will attempt to soak up as much Varanasi as possible. I love it here. I also must pursue my project... somehow. I haven't a clue how to pursue my project in India... all the clarity I got in Thailand, especially in the Karen village doesn't really seem to apply here at all. I am also not in a very scholastic mindset. I think my logical thinking mind is a bit too overwhelmed to come up with much, there is so much going on. Well... that in itself likely presents a direction... Now off to follow the wind. The wind that wafts the most tantilizing delicious and the most putrid foul smells... at the same time.